There is an hour in the greenhouse when the glass goes from black to grey to gold, and the seedlings seem to stand straighter. It is not the hour the photographs usually capture — that comes later, when the crates are full and the light is flat.
The grower walks the rows twice before breakfast, once for the plants and once for the feeling of the place. He is not looking for anything specific. He says the greenhouse tells you what it needs if you are quiet enough to hear it.
We set up our camera at the end of the north row and let the light do the rest. What you see here is the part of farming that happens before anyone else is awake.