Every kitchen contains, in some drawer or tin, a salt that was bought with more ambition than it has since received. Fleur de sel for a weekday omelette; smoked salt that has never met a fire. We are all hoarders of the finishing salt.
The argument of this essay is simple: use it. The pinch scattered over a finished dish is not decoration — it is the difference between a meal that is salted and a meal that is seasoned. Salt added at the end lands on the tongue first, before the other flavors arrive.
So finish with the good salt tonight. The tin will empty, and that is what it was for.